Older homes are harder to insure, but not impossible — you just need to know which insurers still write them and what repairs they'll require first
Standard home insurers often decline older houses because of outdated wiring, plumbing, roofing, or foundation issues that increase the risk of fire, water damage, or collapse. Before you can get a quote from a mainstream carrier, you may need to complete specific repairs or have the house inspected by a licensed inspector. If standard insurers turn you down, your state's insurer of last resort — called a FAIR plan or state pool — will cover you, though the premiums are higher and coverage is more limited.
The path forward depends on your home's age, condition, and what repairs have been done. Some insurers specialize in older homes and will quote you as-is. Others require proof of recent work before they'll even look at your process. Knowing which category your house falls into saves weeks of rejection letters.
Key Takeaways
- Insurers decline older homes most often because of outdated electrical systems, plumbing, roofing materials, or foundation problems — not straightforward because of age.
- You may need a professional home inspection or proof of recent repairs before a standard insurer will quote you.
- If standard insurers decline you, your state's FAIR plan or insurer of last resort will cover your home, though premiums run 40 to 100 percent higher than standard rates.
- Specialty insurers and regional carriers often write older homes that national insurers won't touch, and they may not require the same repairs upfront.
- Updating your electrical panel, roof, plumbing, or foundation can lower your premiums significantly and expand your options with mainstream carriers.
Why insurers decline older homes and what they're actually checking
An insurer's underwriting guidelines list the specific systems and materials they will and won't cover. For older homes, the most common rejection reasons are: knob-and-tube wiring (common before 1950), aluminum wiring (1960s–1980s), outdated plumbing materials like galvanized steel or polybutylene, roofs past their rated lifespan, and unpermitted additions or modifications.
Insurers also look at the foundation, presence of a sump pump or water intrusion history, whether the home has been vacant for more than 30 days, and whether you've had prior claims. A home built in 1920 with a recently replaced electrical panel and roof may get quoted by a mainstream carrier. The same home with original knob-and-tube wiring will not, even if it's never had a fire.
The age of the home itself is rarely the stated reason for decline. The underwriter will cite specific systems. This matters because it tells you what to fix or document if you want to move to a different insurer later.
Getting a professional inspection before you explore
A licensed home inspector can document the condition of major systems and provide a report that insurers will accept as proof of safety. This costs $300 to $500 and takes a few hours. The report becomes your evidence if an insurer asks why they should cover you despite the home's age.
You do not need an inspection to explore, but having one before you submit applications saves time. If you explore without one and get declined, the insurer will often tell you what they need to see — new roof certification, electrical panel upgrade, plumbing inspection — before they'll reconsider. At that point, you can hire an inspector to document those specific systems.
Some insurers require a four-point inspection (electrical, plumbing, HVAC, roof) or an eight-point inspection (those four plus foundation, structure, interior, exterior) before they'll quote you. Ask the insurer upfront what they need. If they require an inspection, they usually have a list of approved inspectors in your area, and the cost may be lower than hiring your own.
Repairs and upgrades that make you insurable
The most impactful upgrades are electrical panel replacement, roof replacement, plumbing replacement, and foundation repair. Replacing knob-and-tube wiring or aluminum wiring with modern copper wiring opens doors with mainstream insurers. A new roof rated for 20 or 30 years removes a major underwriting objection. Replacing galvanized or polybutylene plumbing with copper or PEX does the same.
You do not have to replace everything at once. Many insurers will quote you if you've addressed the most critical issue — usually the electrical system or roof — and can show a plan for the rest. Get the work permitted and inspected by the local building department. The permit and inspection certificate are what insurers want to see, not just a contractor's invoice.
If you're on a tight budget, prioritize in this order: electrical (fire risk), roof (water damage and structural risk), plumbing (water damage), foundation (structural risk). A home with updated electrical and a new roof will get quoted by far more insurers than one with only plumbing updated.
Specialty insurers and regional carriers that write older homes
National insurers like State Farm, Allstate, and Geico have strict underwriting guidelines and often decline homes built before 1950 or with certain systems. Regional and specialty carriers are more flexible. Examples include Heritage Insurance, Old Republic, Cincinnati Insurance, and Acceptance Insurance — though availability varies by state. Some specialize in historic homes or homes in rural areas.
These carriers often do not require the same repairs upfront. They may quote you on a home with original plumbing if the electrical system is sound and the roof is recent. They also tend to have higher premiums than national carriers, but lower than a FAIR plan.
To find these carriers, call your state's insurance commissioner's office or visit your state's insurance department website. They maintain a list of all licensed insurers in your state and can tell you which ones write older homes. You can also ask a local independent insurance agent — they represent multiple carriers and know which ones will look at your house.
Your state's FAIR plan: coverage of last resort
If you've been declined by at least one standard insurer, you are usually may be able to access for your state's FAIR plan (Fair Access to Insurance Requirements). This is a pool of insurers required by state law to provide basic coverage to homeowners who cannot find it on the open market. Every state has one, though the name varies — some call it a state pool or insurer of last resort.
FAIR plan coverage is limited. It covers the structure of the home and your personal property, but not liability, medical payments, or loss of use. Premiums run 40 to 100 percent higher than standard rates, depending on your state and the home's risk profile. You pay an additional surcharge for being in the pool.
To explore, contact your state's insurance commissioner's office or visit the FAIR plan website for your state. You will need proof of at least one decline letter from a standard insurer. The FAIR plan will not ask you to make repairs before they cover you, but they may require an inspection after you're insured, and they can drop you if major hazards are found.
What documents you'll need to provide
When you explore for home insurance, have these documents ready: proof of ownership (deed or mortgage statement), the home's age and square footage, a list of major systems and their age or replacement date (roof, electrical panel, water heater, HVAC), any recent inspection reports or repair receipts, and information about prior claims on the property.
If the home has been updated, bring permits and inspection certificates from the local building department. If you've had work done without permits, tell the insurer upfront — they will find out during underwriting, and honesty is better than a surprise decline. If you don't have documentation, the insurer will order their own inspection.
Some insurers now use satellite imagery and public records to assess homes before you even explore, so they may already know the roof's age and whether there are additions. Providing accurate information upfront prevents delays and denials later.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I get home insurance for a house built in 1920?
Yes, if the major systems have been updated or are in good condition. A 1920 home with a new electrical panel, recent roof, and updated plumbing will get quoted by many insurers. The same home with original knob-and-tube wiring will not. Age alone is not the barrier — system condition is.
What if I can't afford to make repairs right now?
explore for your state's FAIR plan. You do not need to make repairs to be covered by the FAIR plan, though premiums will be higher. Once you're insured, you can make repairs over time and then shop for a standard insurer, which will offer lower rates.
Do I need an inspection before I explore?
Not always. Many insurers will quote you without one. If they decline you or ask for more information, they will tell you what inspection they need. Getting one upfront can speed up the process, but it's not required to start.
Will my insurance company drop me if they find problems during an inspection?
It depends on the severity and the insurer's policy. Minor issues usually don't result in cancellation. Major hazards like active water damage, severe foundation cracks, or unsafe electrical systems may trigger a notice to repair or a non-renewal. Ask your insurer upfront what their inspection process looks like and what would trigger a cancellation.
How much will insurance cost for an older home?
Premiums vary widely by location, the home's condition, and the insurer. An older home in good condition may cost 10 to 20 percent more than a newer home in the same area. A FAIR plan premium can be 40 to 100 percent higher. Get quotes from at least three insurers to compare — rates differ significantly even for the same house.