Start with these five tools before you buy anything else
You do not need a garage full of equipment to handle the repairs that come up in an average home. A hammer, adjustable wrench, cordless drill, level, and tape measure will cover roughly 80 percent of the work you will face in your first year of ownership. These five tools are worth buying well — they will last decades if you treat them reasonably, and they cost less than a single service call from a contractor.
The reason to start here is straightforward: every other tool you buy will be for a specific job. A stud finder matters only if you are hanging something heavy. A reciprocating saw matters only if you are cutting through framing. But these five work on almost everything. Buy them first, use them until you know what else you actually need, and you will avoid the trap of owning thirty tools and using three.
Key Takeaways
- A cordless drill, hammer, adjustable wrench, level, and tape measure handle most common household repairs and should be your first purchases.
- Cordless drills are more useful than corded ones for homeowners because you can use them anywhere without hunting for an outlet.
- A 25-foot tape measure and a 2-foot level are the practical sizes for most home work; larger versions sit unused.
- Buy mid-range tools from established brands rather than the cheapest option or premium professional-grade equipment you will not use hard enough to justify.
- Specialty tools like stud finders, reciprocating saws, and oscillating multi-tools become worth owning only after you have done a few projects and know what you actually need.
The cordless drill: your most-used tool
A cordless drill-driver does two jobs: it drills holes and it drives screws. For homeowners, this is the tool that pays for itself fastest because you will use it constantly — hanging shelves, assembling furniture, fastening hinges, installing cabinet hardware, and dozens of other tasks that would take three times as long by hand.
Buy one with at least 18 volts of power; 20 volts is common and slightly better. The difference between brands at this level is small. DeWalt, Makita, Milwaukee, and Ryobi all make solid mid-range drills that will outlast most homeowners' patience with a single project. Avoid the cheapest options (they stall under load and wear out fast) and avoid professional-grade tools (they cost twice as much and you will not use them hard enough to notice the difference).
A cordless drill is worth the extra cost over a corded one because you can use it anywhere in the house without running an extension cord or hunting for an outlet. The battery lasts long enough for a day's worth of typical home repairs. Buy two batteries if you can — while one charges, you use the other — but one battery is enough to start.
Hammer, wrench, and basic hand tools
A 16-ounce claw hammer is the standard weight for household work. Lighter hammers (12 ounces) tire your arm less but bounce off nails. Heavier ones (20 ounces) drive nails faster but are harder to control. Sixteen ounces is the middle ground that works for most people. The claw end removes nails; the face drives them. A fiberglass or composite handle absorbs shock better than wood and lasts longer.
An adjustable wrench (also called a crescent wrench) fits any bolt or nut size within its range, so you do not need a full set of fixed wrenches taking up space. Buy one that is 10 inches long — large enough to handle most household plumbing and fixture work, small enough to fit into tight spaces. The adjustable jaw should move smoothly and lock tight without play.
Add a screwdriver set with both Phillips and flathead tips in a few sizes. You will use the medium Phillips most often. A multi-bit screwdriver (one handle with interchangeable tips) takes up less space than individual drivers and works just as well for occasional use. A pair of slip-joint pliers grips, bends, and cuts wire; they are useful for plumbing work and for pulling out nails when the hammer claw will not fit.
Level and tape measure for measuring and hanging
A 2-foot level is the practical size for most home work. It is long enough to check whether shelves, pictures, and fixtures are truly horizontal or vertical, but short enough to fit in a closet or under a sink. Longer levels (4 feet or 6 feet) are harder to handle and rarely necessary for homeowner tasks. A level with a digital readout costs more and is not worth it unless you are doing extensive work.
A 25-foot tape measure covers almost every measurement you will need inside a house. Longer tapes (35 feet or 50 feet) are useful for measuring exterior walls or lot lines, but you can borrow one for that job. Buy a tape with a 1-inch-wide blade — it stays rigid when you extend it, so you can measure alone without the tape collapsing. The locking button should hold firmly without slipping.
These two tools are the foundation of hanging anything straight and measuring before you cut. Hanging a shelf crooked or cutting a board wrong wastes time and materials. A few seconds with a level and tape measure prevents that waste.
When to add specialty tools to your kit
After you have completed a few projects with your basic five tools, you will know what specialty tools actually matter for your home. A stud finder (which locates the wooden framing behind drywall) becomes necessary only if you are hanging something heavy like a TV or a large mirror. A reciprocating saw (a powered saw that cuts back and forth) matters only if you are cutting through framing or removing walls. A circular saw is useful if you are cutting boards to length, but a handsaw works for occasional cuts.
An oscillating multi-tool (a small powered tool with interchangeable heads) is genuinely useful for cutting drywall, sanding, and scraping, but it is not essential for basic repairs. A power sander saves time if you are refinishing floors or large surfaces, but hand-sanding works for small projects. A caulking gun is cheap and worth owning if you are sealing gaps or explore caulk, but you can rent one for a single job.
The pattern is the same: buy specialty tools only after you have done the work by hand and know you will do it again. This approach saves money and keeps your workspace from filling up with tools you use once every five years.
Where to buy and how much to spend
Home improvement stores (Home Depot, Lowe's) and online retailers (Amazon) carry the same mid-range brands at similar prices. Local tool shops often have better staff knowledge and may offer better service on repairs or returns. Pawn shops and estate sales sometimes have quality used tools at half the new price, though you cannot test them before buying.
A basic starter kit of five tools (drill, hammer, wrench, level, tape measure) costs between $150 and $300 depending on brand and quality. That is a reasonable investment for tools that will last 10 to 20 years. Avoid the $30 all-in-one kits sold at discount stores — the tools are thin metal, the drill is underpowered, and you will replace them within a year. Avoid professional-grade tools ($600 drills, $200 levels) unless you are doing this work for money.
Buy from brands with a physical presence in your area. If your drill breaks and you need it fixed or replaced, you want a store you can walk into, not a company you have to ship it back to. DeWalt, Makita, Milwaukee, and Ryobi all have service centers and parts availability in most regions.
Storage and maintenance to make tools last
Tools last longer when they stay dry and organized. A plastic toolbox or a wall-mounted pegboard keeps hand tools visible and accessible. A drill battery lasts longer if you do not leave it on the charger constantly — charge it when you need it, then unplug the charger. Store batteries in a cool, dry place; heat and moisture shorten their life.
Clean tools after use, especially if they have been in dust or damp conditions. Wipe metal parts dry. A light coat of oil on wrench jaws and pliers prevents rust. Keep the drill chuck (the part that holds the bit) clean and tight — a loose chuck will slip and round off screw heads. Replace drill bits and saw blades when they dull; dull tools work harder and wear out faster.
A toolbox with a handle is worth the extra cost because you will actually carry it from room to room instead of leaving tools scattered. You will find what you need faster, and you will not lose pieces.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do I need a corded drill as well as a cordless one?
No. A cordless drill is more convenient for almost all home repairs, and the battery technology is good enough that you will not run out of power during a typical project. A corded drill is heavier, requires an extension cord, and ties you to an outlet. The only reason to own one is if you are doing heavy professional work where the extra power matters.
What is the difference between a drill and a drill-driver?
A drill-driver does both jobs: it drills holes and drives screws. A drill-only tool cannot drive screws because it lacks the torque control. For homeowners, a drill-driver is the only choice. The term "drill-driver" is sometimes used to distinguish it from older drill-only tools, but modern cordless drills are all drill-drivers.
Should I buy a tool set or individual tools?
Buy individual tools one at a time as you need them. A large set includes tools you will never use, takes up space, and costs more than buying only what matters. Start with the five basics, then add specialty tools after you have done a few projects and know what you actually need.
Can I use my phone as a level?
A phone level app works in a pinch, but a physical level is more reliable and faster. Phone apps can be thrown off by the phone's case or by magnetic interference. A 2-foot level costs $15 to $30 and will outlast several phones. It is worth owning.
What should I do if a tool breaks?
Most mid-range tools come with a one- to three-year warranty. Contact the manufacturer with proof of purchase (receipt or credit card statement) and they will repair or replace it. Keep your receipt. For tools bought used or without a receipt, a local tool shop can often repair them for less than buying new.